Shelving is a great way to add interest to any space. They can also allow you to display your collection and add storage in any room.
Here are some ideas for shelving. Click on the link, and it will show give you a tutorial.
If you watch many DIY TV shows, you will hear the word “Character” a lot. It is what makes a house one-of-a-kind. Buyers love that, so it’s an excellent selling feature. But what adds character to a place and, better yet, doesn’t break the bank?
Here are some ways to add character to your house without breaking your budget.
Add trim to windows and doors
Add Crown Molding
Use Built-ins
Install A Tile Backsplash
Replace Interior Doors
Beams or Fake Beams
Replace Hardware
These are just some ideas. There are many, many more, and Pinterest is an excellent source.
Have you ever thought about creating an accent wall? A grid wall is a beautiful accent wall; you can make it yourself, but it requires a bit of math.
Step 1 – Plan out the grid
3. Calculate your squares– The key to a perfect grid wall is to make your grids as close to courts as possible. Since your wall width is unlikely to be the same height as your ceiling, this can be a little tricky. We like to have our squares ideally be about 16-24″ on a side. Anything smaller can end up looking too busy. On the other hand, if the courts get too big, they look, well…too big.
If your wall width or height happens to be an even number, like 8 ft, divide by 2 ft to determine how many squares you will have in either direction. If your wall width or height is an odd number, you will have to get a little more creative. We came up with a handy table to take all the guesswork out of it for you:
Step 2 – Install the frame
Create a frame around your grid wall. It should look like this.
Step 3 – Install the vertical pieces.
Vertical pieces are easier to install because they create fewer cuts than horizontal pieces.
Just a little bit more math…
The distance between the edges of your vertical pieces will not be the same as the square spacing we provided in the table above due to the width of your wood. So, how do you figure out the space between your vertical wood pieces? Here is the formula:
Step 4 – Calculate your horizontal spacing
Use the same procedure you used to calculate the width of the wall. Repeat it for the height of the wall
Step 5 – Create two spacer
Cut two pieces of wood precisely the tiny size. This will help you to ensure that the spaces are exact.
Step 7 – Fill nail holes and caulk
Step 8 – Paint and enjoy your new wall!!
Why would I shove toothpicks in a hole in my antique cupboard door, you may ask…
Super simple…When you have a loose screw (probably should do a different treatment for the mental sense of a ‘loose screw’… I’m just talking about the literal meaning of a loose screw today) due to the hole it’s screwed into being just a bit too big like I did one day, I realized, when I opened the door of an old cupboard I have in the breakfast room. The top of the door fell off the cupboard, barely holding on by the bottom hinge! Oops, I would recommend fixing those loose cabinet and cupboard doors before it gets to that point, or it can lead to more significant problems. I’m lucky I used the door when it happened, so I could immediately catch it and relieve the tension on the bottom hinge. I’m afraid the door and cupboard could have split if it had let loose when one of my grandchildren opened it.
(according to my old carpenter friend that taught me the carpenter trick to repair furniture)
I removed the door from the cupboard and laid it on a flat surface, (it will need to lie flat overnight, so pick a spot where it can sit for a while)
(in this case, I do prefer wood glue, I believe it is more robust and works better for this project)
One at a time, shoving the last ones in as hard as I could. A couple of thoughts about this: be sure to try to get the toothpicks to the bottom of the hole; this is important because one of the issues with loose screws can be the gap is too deep. And secondly, try to fill the hole; some of the glue will ooze back out of the spot, but that’s OK. For effect, I showed you all the toothpicks long at one time,
but it’s much easier if you snip each one once as it’s inserted in the hole. Getting the top of the toothpick flush with the cupboard door is crucial so that your hinge will lie flat on the door when placed back on it.
Once the holes were filled with snipped toothpicks and glue, I let them dry overnight. It’s hard to define separate toothpicks in this photo, but each screw hole did take several toothpicks to fill.
What you’re creating is a wood-based wood filler that will have the strength to give the screw something to grip onto.
When you are ready to put the hinge back on the door,
This always helps prevent the screw from slipping around and not going into the wood in the exact spot we’re aiming for and helps prevent the wood from splitting. Just be sure you don’t go too deep or use too large of a drill bit (but if you do, now you know how to fix it!)
The old screws holding the hinge were in terrible shape, and I couldn’t reuse them, but these new screws work great and hold the door on well.
All done!!
Why would I shove toothpicks in a hole in my antique cupboard door, you may ask…
Super simple…When you have a loose screw (probably should do a different treatment for the mental sense of a ‘loose screw’… I’m just talking about the literal meaning of a loose screw today) due to the hole it’s screwed into being just a bit too big like I did one day, I realized, when I opened the door of an old cupboard I have in the breakfast room. The top of the door fell off the cupboard, barely holding on by the bottom hinge! Oops, I would recommend fixing those loose cabinet and cupboard doors before it gets to that point, or it can lead to more significant problems. I’m lucky I used the door when it happened, so I could immediately catch it and relieve the tension on the bottom hinge. I’m afraid the door and cupboard could have split if it had let loose when one of my grandchildren opened it.
(according to my old carpenter friend that taught me the carpenter trick to repair furniture)
I removed the door from the cupboard and laid it on a flat surface, (it will need to lie flat overnight, so pick a spot where it can sit for a while)
(in this case, I do prefer wood glue, I believe it is more robust and works better for this project)
One at a time, shoving the last ones in as hard as I could. A couple of thoughts about this: be sure to try to get the toothpicks to the bottom of the hole; this is important because one of the issues with loose screws can be the gap is too deep. And secondly, try to fill the void; some of the glue will ooze back out of the spot, but that’s OK. For effect, I showed you all the toothpicks long at one time,
but it’s much easier if you snip each one once as it’s inserted in the hole. Getting the top of the toothpick flush with the cupboard door is crucial so that your hinge will lie flat on the door when placed back on it.
Once the holes were filled with snipped toothpicks and glue, I let them dry overnight. It’s hard to define separate toothpicks in this photo, but each screw hole did take several toothpicks to fill.
What you’re creating is a wood-based wood filler that will have the strength to give the screw something to grip onto.
When you are ready to put the hinge back on the door,
This always helps prevent the screw from slipping around and not going into the wood in the exact spot we’re aiming for and helps prevent the wood from splitting. Just be sure you don’t go too deep or use too large of a drill bit (but if you do, now you know how to fix it!)
The old screws holding the hinge were in terrible shape, and I couldn’t reuse them, but these new screws work great and hold the door on well.
All done!!
I recently came across Smart Tiles, which I thought was an excellent product. It’s a peel-and-stick, very thin and lightweight tile. You use a ruler and a utility knife to cut it. So easy to use and can contour around electrical outlets. Anyone can install it. They are great for kitchen backsplash, as well as bathroom backsplash.
The result is impressive. They come in different styles and colors and are low in cost compared to tiles. Perfect for renters or people who are on tight budgets.
Check them out and give them a try!!
Use them in Bathrooms.
And in kitchen
Even on stairs!!
There are many different types of sofas; it boggles the mind. But we can narrow it down to 11 design styles. From these styles are many variations. Understanding these styles may help you select the best design for your home.
1. Chesterfield Sofa – This style is defined by its rolled arm. The back is the same height as the arms. It has tufting or quilting but no cushions. He dated back to the 18th century and was commissioned by the Earl of Chesterfield, England. The sofa was commissioned so that it would allow men to sit on the sofa upright and not wrinkle their suits.
2. Cabriole Sofa – This style is characterized by its “S” shaped legs and exposed wood frame. It also has arms that are slightly lower than the back, and it has no back cushions. Cabriole goes back to the 18th century.
3. Camelback Sofa – It has an arched back, similar to a camel, hence the name!! This style has rolled or square arms, usually no back cushions, and the legs are exposed.
4. Lawson Sofa – Created by Thomas W. Lawson, an American businessman. The first Lawson sofa came with pillows, and it was overstuffed. Very different than the traditional sofas. There are many variations of this sofa, but you can recognize this style by its three cushions and rolled or square arms.
5. Tuxedo Sofa – Starting the modernism movement in the 1920s. It got its name from the town of Tuxedo Park in New York. The arms define this style; they are the same height as the back. Most of the Tuxedo sofa does not come with back cushions. Legs are exposed. This style differs from Chesterfield. Chesterfield has rolled arm; Tuxedo does not.
6. English Rolled Arm Sofa – Considered one of the coziest sofas. Sometimes called the Club Sofa. It dates back to the turn of the century. It has a tight back but generously sized cushions. The arms are recessed.
7. Knole Sofa – Dates back to the early 1600s. Back then, sofas did not exist. Instead, they used settee. This style has a straight high back and angled adjustable arms. Cords were used to connecting back to constituents. This style has decreased in popularity, but it can still be found in some homes.
8. Bridgewater Sofa – This style is defined by its softly rolled back, low set-back arms, and padded cushions. It can also be called birch-arm or English three-seater.
9. Mid-Century Modern Sofa – Started in the mid-1930s to 1965. They have a retro appearance. They come in many variations. This style has a streamlined form with square legs.
10. Sectional Sofa – Promoted by modernism, this sofa style has modular components. It has corner units ottoman and sometimes comes with chaise or recliners.
11. Futon Sofa – Dates back to 17th century Japan. The back folds down to create a large bed. This is perfect in a space where it can not accommodate a bed.
There are many variations to the styles of sofas mentioned here. Knowing what form best fits your space can significantly help to select the couch you want.
And if you need help, you can always reach out to me.
Did you know there are many types of ceilings? Some you may know, and others may not be familiar to you. Either way, you have a choice. Every kind of ceiling will give your space a unique look. In addition, each ceiling offers different characteristics.
Here are just some of the ceilings to choose from:
These days some tiles look just like hardwood. So what are the benefits of these wood-like tiles? Well, for one thing, they can go over cement flooring. Hardwood needs a sub-flooring, and it does not go over cement.
It’s also great in areas with a lot of moisture, like the bathroom. Or in the kitchen, where there is a lot of traffic and wear and tear. The tiles look so real nowadays that it’s hard to tell the difference.
They come in many different widths and colors. Check it out yourself, and you’ll be surprised.
This past summer, I was hired to design a senior citizen apartment. She was moving from her current home into a new senior development and wanted a “WOW Factor!”. Her words, not mine.
I met with my client and her daughter and went to work. First, I went and measured the space and took pictures. Then I made a floor plan. This is important because it allows me to see what items are going where and, most importantly, the size it requires. After that, we set a date and went shopping. Sometimes my client does come with me when I shop.
Here is the floor plan. I estimated what size would work. This way, when I shop for the item, I know the size of the item. We were shopping for a living room, dining room, and kitchen.
We bought all the furniture at Raymour and Flannigan since she wanted fast delivery and had a budget she needed to work with. So we did the complete shopping all in one day.
Safe to say she definitely got the “wow” factor!
